I suppose I should apologise for the lack of activity recently – I have been mostly working on my car so railway time has been low. Since I got my hands on one of Hornby’s Push-Pull sets, however, I have been doing a little more. Here are some photographs I took:

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I am now keeping headcode discs on both the engine and driving trailer and only swapping the lamp over as this is how I have seen it done in photographs.

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I have also been running this as a 3 coach set with my other Second Open although the photograph I have showing 30053 with a 3-car Push Pull set at Lymington shows that both second opens had the plated-over lavatory windows, so that’s not strictly correct as my loose one doesn’t.

I also produced a neater way of adding the run-round extension that allows me to run 76069 and 31404 without using a pilot to draw away stock:

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Thanks for reading!

Albion Yard

'Shelfie' ‘Shelfie’

2013 was, we are told the year of the ‘selfie’, basically a self portrait taken with a smartphone or tablet and bunged on the interweb for millions to drool over. Interestingly there’s some research that shows that if you are looking at some kind of text on a web page or social networking service and there’s no image associated with the text, people have less trust toward that information.The picture of the photographer/author/subject is in effect a key to authenticity or belief in the information itself. That’s why I tend to put pictures on the blog. I can rabbit on as much as I like, but a picture speaks a thousand words, and if I’ve done something I can show I’ve done it, Even if its crap.

I’ve not had an update on here for a month or so now, so apologies for that, the blog has now had…

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I’m sure (I’m not really) that you have all been wondering where I’ve gone.

Well, let’s just say there’s not so much time to fiddle with your railway when you have become the very proud owner of a ’94 Mini.

That’s a real Mini not a BMW MINI

Do you see?

You know how sometimes a train is delayed because of engineering work?

Sadly I’m not quite as speedy as the real railway’s Pway gangs and so my latest (and most fantastic) acquisition has not been able to run properly yet.

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Also – she’s Redhill allocated and I have no idea whatsoever what features she has. I know it’s the smaller (3,500 gallon) straight-sided tender, or I think it is, but I don’t know if it is an N, U1 or BR Standard chimney, amongst other things. As I would be wanting to renumber her to a suitable loco for the area I first need to know exactly what features she had and what Salisbury’s (the nearest BR shed with Ns) N classes had, as well as their numbers!

This could prove difficult…

Also, I visited the British Museum with my Archaeology class and our minibus stopped right outside the architecturally pleasant end of Waterloo (not the blue scaffolding tunnel thing at the other end which is spectacular but is not as nice as this)

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Finally, a report on those engineering works.

It would appear that Gaugemaster/SEEP made their point motor rods out of heavy duty steel as all attempts to cut them have failed. Their height precludes the running of trains which is rather sad. I tried pliers, side-cutters and a saw and all failed. In fact my side-cutters are now ruined as there are several circular indents between the jaws when shut, which goes to show just how hard the rods are. Minutes of sawing also had absolutely no effect, apart from bending the rods.

Also, the starter signal took a knock at some point – definitely not my doing – and I don’t think it will take a lot more. It now undulates more than your average steel-bodied carriage side!

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Here we see the Gaugemaster/SEEP point motors fitted.

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Here we see the “lever frame” before installation. I will add labels above, complete with colour coding but I don’t know how they are meant to be labeled or which colour corresponds to points. If anyone can help I would appreciate it. I think I will wire them to the points their position is relative to or I may group them, so it will either be (from left to right) the buffers end loop point, goods yard point, goods yard throat/loop point, station throat/loop point or it will be buffers end loop point, station throat/loop point, goods yard point, goods yard throat/loop point, if that makes any sense. I think there is an appropriate picture overview of the station somewhere on here if it doesn’t make sense, especially if you can help with the labelling/colouring/naming of these points as I would like to do it as prototypically as possible and as far as I know levers in a ‘box had a panel with some sort of code on? This is what I want to have on the labels.

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Finally, here is a view showing the lever frame once glued on, with triangular section brackets supporting it. This may be a temporary measure as I would rather like to make a more aesthetically pleasing solution in future and I do expect additional switches. I already have a ‘pot’ for the layout lighting!

This is a quick post to report that the lever frame for Duncomb Road has been built although currently it only has 4 levers! They will eventually all be labelled, however the frame has not even been fitted yet.

In other news, a reduced service is to be in place following these works (because I need to tidy up)

This will be run by 76069 and the Class 105, as well as the MK1 BSK and a few wagons.

I tested one of my new grain-o’-wheat bulbs and they are certainly bright enough.

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This was where I tested it in a position intended to represent one of my gas lamps, and all of the yellow light here was really cast by this bulb, whereas the headlights on the 105 are swamped by the bright light. The lamp is actually just out of the picture on the right hand side. The bulbs are rated 12V and the controller’s auxiliary output has a rating of 15V. Needless to say I will be fitting resistors to dim the lamps and prolong their life.

Addendum: please note that as it’s night this porter has decided to take a quick forty winks, but the lady passenger is obviously quite agitated. Porter Biggs cannot really be expected to carry all of her heavy cases himself, surely?

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I currently have the same lamp positioned on the signal. However as you can see it will need covering so that the light only projects straight forward as the glow illuminates the area and shines right through the signal arm, as well as lighting up both lenses.

Boxing Day saw me finally getting around to a little modelling. As well as finishing 6110 Royal Scot and painting James Herriot, (see my last post) I also weathered three wagons, one of which also gained a little repaint.

The repainted wagon is a Bachmann SR design 2+2 planked unfitted vent van, formerly painted in LMS grey.

However, a little freehand brush painting – I didn’t use masking tape as I have none – and there is a whole new wagon.

No particular prototype here (as with several of my wagons) as I had no prototype photographs. – I based the markings on my fitted SR van (also Bachmann) and the tare weights on the LMS livery. Good luck reading the numbers, these were also copied from my fitted van (heresy, I know) but since they are illegible I’m sure it’s fine.

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Here’s how I did it:

First I painted black blocks around the numbers and tare weights. I did not raise it to the plank with LMS on as my bauxite version only has the “12T” on the third plank.

Next I took a grey paint (old Citadel ‘Codex Grey’ to be precise) and painted out the letters LMS. I then painted individual planks and groups of planks on all sides with this as well as one ventilator.

I picked out a small number of planks in Humbrol matt Dark Earth – my favoured bare wood colour.

Next I took a large brush and aggressively dunked it in Citadel ‘Badab Black’ wash. I then coated the entire model in this, leaving it to soak for a few seconds and then wiped it away with a tissue, especially away from strapping.

You could call it quits here but I used Citadel ‘Ogryn Flesh’ (another wash) to simulate rust. I used a medium brush and again dunked it in the pot, heavily applying it around (in this case/side) the left – hand door’s bottom strapping and the chains on the door.

This should then be left for about an hour or two until it dries. Unsurprisingly it takes ages as there is loads slapped on and drying time between coats is blissfully ignored! Further improvement can be gained by mixing matt Dark Earth (or similar) with a matt black so it is almost grey-black and coating the underframe in it, as well as gently dry-brushing the lower body. If this is too much for you, brown and grey pencils or chalk will do nicely on the underframe.

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This Bachmann RCH 5 plank open has been treated in very much the same way. However the bare planks are of interest. These were painted matt ‘Dark Earth’ as before, and although the paint was allowed some time to dry before the washes it was only touch-dry (if that)

Rubbing the large brush in a sideways motion along the planks (whilst heavily laden with wash) scrubbed off some of the brown on the right hand side producing the wood grain effect. I assure you this was entirely by accident. The left hand plank is supposed to represent peeling paint, this was achieved using a fairly dry brush and stippling it on to the plank. This leaves a scratchy, speckled effect perfect for this. You can tell I worked left-to-right on that plank as the brown is more concentrated on the left hand side. You should notice that this wagon is fairly rust-free but it still looks acceptable. Again, improvements could be made by dirtying the underframe. A sooty black would also be worthwhile on the body sides, streaked from the top downwards, especially around the door.

(please note that none of these Citadel paints are made anymore – although the makeup of their new range is roughly identical. Thinned matt black paint would work fine for the first wash and a pinky-red for the latter)

If you want to try these, best of luck. If you need any help let me know!

 

Addendum

My last post didn’t post so here is an image of James Herriot enjoying the sight of 6110 in the yard.

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